Ever thought of trying out of airbrush makeup but didn’t know how to? Read on to get a hang of it.
When starting out, practice with water first to get a feel for the different settings of the compressor and airbrush gun. Keep your wrist steady when you hold the airbrush gun. Do not flex the wrist. Use the air coming from the compressor as a guide. Wherever you feel the air on your face is where the makeup will be applied. Clip or tie your hair back to make sure you don’t spray any makeup on it. Keep moving! Don’t stay in one spot or you will have more color in that area.  Always use the same speed and circular motion for foundation. The closer you go, the more concentrated the color will be.
Avoid over-spray, especially when applying foundation as a concealer. This will result in ‘hot spots’ where makeup is thicker and does not dry as fast as the rest of the makeup. When isolating blemishes, use short bursts of spray and release the trigger before pulling away. Clean, clean, clean! Always have lots of airbrush cleaning fluid on hand and be generous with it. Never leave makeup in your airbrush gun. As soon as you are finished with one shade flush the airbrush with cleaner.Use an airbrush cleaning fluid with the same base as your airbrush makeup (eg. water-based cleaner for water-based airbrush makeup).
Don’t close your eyes too tight when going over you face this will make every wrinkle you have stand out keep your skin as loose as possible. Make sure you blend in your neck with the rest of the foundation to avoid a massive contrast. Some makeup artists like to cover up any spots with a sponge after applying the makeup as a final touchup. Don’t use regular foundation in the airbrush! Only use airbrush makeup foundation. When contouring, always ensure to do an even number of passes on both sides. When highlighting it is always best to start from the inside and move outwards, pulling back as you go.
Clean, cause it is essential to keep your airbrush gun clean and sanitized so it continues to work properly without clogging. Be very careful when handling the tip of the airbrush gun. The needle is very fragile and will not work if you break it. Always apply concealer first! If you conceal over the top of the airbrush foundation you will ruin the airbrushed areas. Shake the makeup well before using it 4-6 drops of makeup is enough for foundation.
When applying foundation hold the gun 6-12 inches away from the face (getting in closer for target areas which require more coverage). A PSI between 13-18 is best for body work, lower than that for fine detail. Trust your eyes. If it looks good it’s done! The more you observe the changes and learn to watch as you apply the makeup, the better your eye will become.
Prepare the skin with a good cleanser to ensure there are no dead skin cells. Wash and pat dry, then apply a light moisturizer to smooth out the skin (some airbrush makeup kits come with a moisturizer and some airbrush makeups include moisturizing ingredients)Make sure your skin is rinsed free from cleanser and totally dry before applying foundation (otherwise any cleanser left over will emulsify the makeup).Always test spray on your hand or a piece of white paper before applying airbrush makeup to your face to ensure the machine is working correctly and you have the right color tones. It’s important to have constant motion when applying airbrush foundation to avoid uneven or blotchy areas (unless you require more coverage). A dual action airbrush allows you to spray air which you can use as a guide to locating the correct target areas for your makeup. You can also use the air to dry off the makeup after application.
The light bronze colors are much more forgiving than other tones. For beginners it can help to start with these–especially when applying eye shadow–until you build up your confidence and can try more adventurous colors. Don’t forget the guides and shields for contouring and highlights that come with the Dinair system! The bigger the needle, the wider the coverage. Conversely, the smaller needles are good for fine work such as mascara and brows. Don’t go overboard! If you make too many passes the result will be a ‘cakey’ appearance. Practice makes perfect! Don’t be discouraged if you don’t get it right away. It takes some time to pick up the techniques to airbrush well.
-MISBAAH MANSURI
2 Comments